First off, forget flashy discos. The bars and clubs on Harbour Island are down-home quirky kind of places where you'll mix comfortably with the locals.

Sunset on the bay

Catching the sunset as it sinks over the neighboring "mainland" island of Eleuthera is a major highlight of the day. The bayside resorts suddenly get very popular: Gusty's, both marinas, Romora, the Landing, and most of all, Harbour Lounge at the foot of Government dock. Folks start jockeying for those bayside tables as soon as the shadows begin to lengthen. If you're hankering to see a Briland sunset right now, check out the entries in our March photo contest.

After sunset, the trick is to stretch out your dinner until the nightclubs get active at 9:00 or even 10:00 o'clock. Here's the rundown.

Seagrapes

Seagrapes is a nondescript cement structure over by the library, but inside it's the spot most likely to get rocking with live local music. You'll hear Bahamian music, Carribbean style, from the Brilanders who have toured for Jimmy buffet. Seagrapes also gets occasional guest performers from Nassau and beyond.

Vic-Hum Club

Frommer's description of the Vic-Hum as a "dive" only begins to hint at the glorious, unrestrained, ramshackle, faded excess of this place and its larger-than-life owner Humphrey "Hitler" Percentie. Hitler has long dreamed of turning this mostly-locals place into a tourist attraction. The crowd outside might give you pause, but if you enter the front door on Barracks street and step through the pool room into the inner sanctum where Hitler holds court, you can be assured of a hearty greeting, a decent rum punch, and a decor that will bring tears to the eyes of those who yearn for how things used to be on tiny islands.

Charlie's

Located right in the center of town next to Arthur's Bakery, Charlie's gets a loyal following of locals and tourists from Nassau, but never seems to fill up despite doing many things right. Besides having a cozy bar inside, they've got the most inviting little patio with a view of the action at the center of town, specialize in frozen daiquiris, and even offer free conch fritters upon occasion. Visitors tell us one of the bartenders has good drink-making skills and the other has good skills in making people feel welcome. It would be swell if they were on duty at the same time.

JJ's

A mostly locals hangout where the in-crowd knows to go to order chicken souse to take home for dinner—or breakfast if you really want to go native.